TRG Info and Advice

The origin of Japanese sake can be traced back to the Age of the Gods, where references to it are found in the 3^rd Century Chinese book, Records of Wei: An Account of the Wa. Sake making, with rice as the main ingredient, started when wet rice cultivation was introduced to and took root in Japan (between the Periods of Jomon and Yayoi), and sake brewing spread from Kyushu and the Kinki Region (in the west and central part of Japan) to the rest of the country. At that time, sake was processed with the most primitive method, “kuchi-kami” (literally: mouth-chew), where cooked rice was chewed and converted to sugar with the help of enzymes present in saliva, and natural yeast helped with fermentation. In Japanese, the act of brewing sake is called “kamosu”, which reputedly originates from the word “kamu” (to chew). Only female miko, who serve gods in shrines, were qualified to do kuchi-kami, so sake might have been originally brewed by women. In the Nara Period (700’s), a brewing department called “Sake no Tsukasa” was established. They facilitated a sake-brewing system for the government, and sake-brewing technology began to develop.

At the beginning of the Heian Period (from late 8^th Century to the early 9^th Century), some records indicate that sake was brewed with almost the same methods as today. It was not available to everyone, however, and was consumed mostly by the nobility. Sake was, also, brewed for special occasions on celebrative days such as agricultural rituals and harvest festivals, and consumed after being dedicated to the gods. In the middle of the Muromachi Period (early 15^th Century), sake was brewed in temples and promoted as “soubou-shu” (sake made in temples). As time passed, and urbanization and commercial activities advanced, sake became more widely distributed as a product with the same economic value as rice. Temples and shrines started to brew more sake, breweries prospered and Kyoto became the center for sake brewing. People started to drink sake on a daily basis, not only on special occasions. The sake brewed at temples and shrines had to be of good quality, because it was for honoring gods. That led sake brewing technology to develop to a greater extent and its characteristic technology was almost complete by the end of the 16^th Century.

In the early Edo Period (early 17^th Century), sake was brewed at five different times throughout the year, but by the middle of the Edo Period, people discovered that winter’s low temperatures produced the best sake. From then on, sake was brewed in mass during this optimal season and then stored. This resulted in the emersion of a group of master sake brewers (touji), whose purpose was to brew sake only in winter. At the same time, innovative methods were developing, like those to improve heat pasteurization at low temperatures to keep sake longer, and allegation “hashira shochu“ (meaning: pillar shochu, the addition of alcohol) to control fragrance and lower the risk of acidification. Shops which both brewed and sold sake appeared, making it accessible to the common people. A record tells that there were about 27,000 sake breweries around Japan at the end of the 17^th Century, and sake brewing was considered a major industry. During the Meiji Period (1868-1912), people started to realize that scientific knowledge is essential to brewing good sake, and by the Showa Period, all types of equipment and measures were available. Nowadays, technology has developed to an even greater extent and better equipment is available, but there are still complex brewing methods, which machines can never master. The techniques and knowledge fostered by the touji sake brewers, therefore, are still required.

After hitting a peak of 1,766,000kl in 1973, the consumption of Japanese sake began to decrease. In 2011, sake consumption was down to 603,000kl, a drop of 65.9%. The number of sake breweries, also, was 4,021 nationwide in 1955, but declined to 1,684 in 2012, a 40% decline from the peak. However, the consumption of premium sake brewed in comparatively small amounts, is increasing little by little. Since Japanese cuisine has been attracting more and more people in recent years, the export of Japanese sake, mainly premium sake, is rising! Its export volume doubled from 8,270kl in 2003 to 16,202kl in 2013, and its export value tripled from 39 billion yen in 2003 to 105 billion yen in 2013.

Sake is an alcoholic beverage produced from rice and water since ancient times, which can be also used as a seasoning agent. Sake is also called seishu. It contains an average of 15% alcohol.

Sake made from rice is not just an alcoholic drink for Japanese people. It is deeply rooted in agricultural rituals of rice cultivation and was developed as an offering for dedicating to gods. Rice is a Japanese staple, and in other words, a source of life for Japanese people.

When people pray for the rich cultivation of rice, they dedicate sake (omiki) and mochi rice cakes made from glutinous rice, and when conducting rituals at the time of harvest, they offer the just-harvested rice. Sake is considered the most important offering dedicated to gods and is essential in festivals. Rituals are followed by a banquet called “naorai”. People take the offerings of rice and sake down from the alter, and eat and drink them in front of the gods. By consuming the food and drink in which divine power dwells, they believe they can take in the energy of the gods.

Sake is brewed by unique methods, and categorized as alcohol like wine and beer. Just like grapes are divided into ones for brewing wine and ones for eating, there is a special type of rice called “shuzo kouteki mai” that is suitable for sake making.

Good sake is said to have a similar taste to good quality wine when consumed cold. Sake is, therefore, sometimes entered in wine tasting exhibitions and awarded prizes. There is mass-produced sake that is sold nationwide, but there are, also, local sake breweries all over Japan. These regional factories have various, unique brewing methods, and produce different tastes peculiar to the area, dependent upon the quality of rice and water. This kind of sake is called “jizake” (regional or local sake) and it is estimated that there are about 5,000 different brands.

Rice, the main ingredient of sake, does not contain sugar, so koji mould is added to convert the protein in rice to sugar, and the enzyme in koji mould helps with the glycation of rice. Yeast is, then, added and the mixture is allowed to ferment slowly. Since glycation and fermentation take place at the same time in the same container, this process is called multi-parallel fermentation. This process is unique to sake, and is a complex method that requires extreme skill.

Sake is a rare alcoholic drink which tastes good either cold or warm, and you may enjoy it at a wide range of temperatures, from 5℃ to 55℃, unlike beer and wine. In Japan, a country steeped in rich nature, a lavish, sake-and-nature-appreciation culture has been nurtured. In spring, people enjoy sake at cherry blossom viewing parties. In summer, on the last day of June, people drink “Nagoshi no sake” to purify themselves from the accumulated foulness of the six months since New Year’s, and to get through the hot summer. In autumn, people enjoy sake while viewing the beautiful autumn moon, and in winter, while viewing the falling snow.

• ・Rice: the Essence of Japan
• ・Japanese Water: source of life, source of wisdom
• ・Shochu (Japanese distilled spirits)
• ・Japanese Wines: Not What They Used to Be
• ・How to enjoy an izakaya: an invitation to a real Japanese-style dining experience